Tekforums
Chat => Sports, Hobbies & Motors => Topic started by: Rivkid on January 12, 2015, 13:12:33 PM
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Any thoughts before i set fire to the damn thing....
I bought a Nissan Xtrail 2.2 sport diesel for the wife – she does short journeys which I know now is bad for them, lesson learned!
About 1 month in it went into limp mode on a trip – did it once more an hour later and then never did it again.
4 months on I noticed (on a long journey) an intermittent judder/hesitation under acceleration, around 2000 RPM’s in 5th/6th gear. The next day it juddered really badly and the engine warning light came on -it went into limp mode again and the garage replaced the MAF sensor following the ODB2 reading. After a second MAF sensor (1st replacement was faulty) this fixed the warning light and LIMP mode issue but not the intermittent judder. Since then I’ve replaced the fuel filter too and its had a brand new premium battery, but no better it still judders. It does it maybe 2/3 times on a 40 – 60 minute journey and you can usually clear it by dropping gear and firing the revs (but sometimes it drags on a bit). Since the MAF change its also picked up an issue starting from cold – you turn the key and the engine fires, but as the revs drop the engine stalls. It stays alive if you rev it on startup, and once the engine has warmed up it’ll restart and idle without any issues.
I'm being told (a lot) that its likely still the MAF sensor, but the replacement is cheap and I should change to an OEM branded. £175.00 plus fitting. Happy to do it - but worried about wasting money on the wrong thing.
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Pete
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has anything been done/checked on the egr valve they are a constant source of problems on most diesel engines.
Is it a renault engine in those?
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throw in some cata-clean
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Could be fuel pump? I've had it a couple of times on Mondeo TDCi's which are notorious for Fuel Pump issues, both times on the motorway at higher speed, on normal 30 roads it wasn't a problem, the problem only became apparent on the motorway.
Similar issue to yours, it would go into limp mode, i would turn ignition off and it would reset it itself.
Really it could be a whole host of issues, the main dealers fitters are doing jobs by books these days i was told, they will have a list of possibilities and just work through it until the issue is fixed. Your best bet is to either hit the Xtrail forums or find a specialist that knows his sh*t.
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similar issues with my car a month or so ago..
read people with similar issues with the same car & some had changed all sorts of parts inc the EGR & Filters + sensors, etc.
One post said try cata clean - so done the only job I could possibly do (& the cheapest £15 from halfords). Poured in the bottle of cata clean with a small amount of fuel.
no more issues
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Cheers guys. So I found a 4x4 specialist locally who knew all about these models which was good.
Told him my story and he immediately asked if the replacement MAF was genuine or not - I said it probably wasn't as a local independent garage had done it and they don't usually use branded unless specially asked.
He's fitted a brand new Nissan one this morning and says its pulling loads better but we won't know if its sold the cold start issue until its sat for a good few hours (probably not till tomorrow morning really). I'll take it for a big run later and hopefully it won't judder. If it does I'm going to get the EGR valve cleaned.
It could be the suction control valves on the fuel pump which are a common fault on this model, but at high speed/revs (motorway) its been fine, its more around 2000RPM its an issue - plus once its warm enough not to stall it idles perfectly. I'd expect an SCV issue to idle really erratically.
Thanks for the tips - and btw yes it is a Renault engine in this I believe. Felt a bit duped when I found that out, although I will say my other car is a 2004 Megane Sports Tourer and thats fantastic! :)
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You'd recommend Cata Clean though? Worth doing anyway?
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You'd recommend Cata Clean though? Worth doing anyway?
Well on my car, it was recommended to replace the DPF sensor... always seems to be sensor issues that people start with.
So my opinion is that some sh*t could be causing the sensor to give a false reading & failures.
Hence cataclean worked for me as it burnt the sh*t.
How many times does things actually go faulty, compared to needing a bit of cleaning?
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You'd recommend Cata Clean though? Worth doing anyway?
Well on my car, it was recommended to replace the DPF sensor... always seems to be sensor issues that people start with.
So my opinion is that some sh*t could be causing the sensor to give a false reading & failures.
Hence cataclean worked for me as it burnt the sh*t.
How many times does things actually go faulty, compared to needing a bit of cleaning?
Sensors issues are recommended first because they are cheap fixes, if it doesn't solve the problem the fitter will move on, thus the list of issues that mechanics work through, but its not the cheapest option in the long run.
The cheapest option is to always goto a specialist, as 9/10 times they will know the fault.
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Sensors issues are recommended first because they are cheap fixes, if it doesn't solve the problem the fitter will move on, thus the list of issues that mechanics work through, but its not the cheapest option in the long run.
The cheapest option is to always goto a specialist, as 9/10 times they will know the fault.
cpu fans are cheap as well, but if your PC is overheating, do you not clean the fan & heatsink first? if the sensor is sensing sh*t & the sh*t aint clearing, then the sensor is working fine. Replacing a working sensor with another working sensor will still sense the sh*t thats setting the sensor off!
Specialist isnt going to send you to halfords to tell you spend £15 with them, when they know they can hit you for an easy £50+
bottle of cataclean, 1/4 tank of fuel & some italian tune up driving
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Told him my story and he immediately asked if the replacement MAF was genuine or not -
anybody can make a tube with a bit of heated wire in. which is why there are so many MAFS made. however, quality tells in this part. I had an S4 that'd ruin MAF sensors for fun. put an OEM one on and it never blew again. lesson learnt.
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My vw has an egr delete kit. May want to see if you can do the same on your wife's car. The carbon build up in yours with short journeys is going to be so bad.
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Sensors issues are recommended first because they are cheap fixes, if it doesn't solve the problem the fitter will move on, thus the list of issues that mechanics work through, but its not the cheapest option in the long run.
The cheapest option is to always goto a specialist, as 9/10 times they will know the fault.
cpu fans are cheap as well, but if your PC is overheating, do you not clean the fan & heatsink first? if the sensor is sensing sh*t & the sh*t aint clearing, then the sensor is working fine. Replacing a working sensor with another working sensor will still sense the sh*t thats setting the sensor off!
Specialist isnt going to send you to halfords to tell you spend £15 with them, when they know they can hit you for an easy £50+
bottle of cataclean, 1/4 tank of fuel & some italian tune up driving
You have read it the wrong way, i wouldn't recommend it, i was simply letting you know how dealers seem to work these days, as i explained they have a list of parts, sensors are usually the first items to be changed, then next item and next item until the issue is fixed. Which is why i always recommend people to find a specialist, as they will skip the shopping list and go straight to the problem
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Well don't think any of us saw this coming. Fecking timing chain stretched throwing the camshaft and crankshaft sensors out. Fortunately the specialist I took it to sees the same problem on Navara's all the time - he was actually cross with himself he didn't spot it straight away. Lovely £1500 bill to pay when I collect the car tomorrow, but at least its finally sorted. Love the car so glad we can keep it.
We're going to alternate cars every other day from now on - that way both cars will get a good thrashing each week when I drive to Oswestry :)
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My Petrol Vauxhall astra had a funky MAF...problem is the sensors are built in to the manifold in that car meaning the whole thing needs to be replaced from what I know... = £600 minimum (Originally quoted £862 but pulled the "I'm getting married next year and really can't afford it" card...seemed to work!)
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FIXED!!!
Bloody hell what a faff. So basically he did the timing chains and it was a bit better but the problem came back a day later. They then investigated and eventually found someone previously has put the fly wheel on the camshaft wrong. It wasn't mounted correctly and was missing a securing pin. This had caused damage to the wheel and camshaft (which he physically showed me) Subtle but with bit impact. A replacement wheel and cam shaft later and the car is perfect - and he only charged me an extra £99.00 for that so well happy with the service he's provided.
I am about ready to go and murder the bugger I bought it off though - I reckon he's done that himself as a botch job!
Ah at least she's back and not on fire! :)
Thanks for the input chaps.
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Crap state of affairs but at least you got to the bottom of it without massive outlay.
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£100 to replace camshaft and wheel on the end of it is a bargain
if he hadn't shown you the damage, I'd have called BS and said he was a con man if he could fix it for £100 :-o
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£100 to replace camshaft and wheel on the end of it is a bargain
if he hadn't shown you the damage, I'd have called BS and said he was a con man if he could fix it for £100 :-o
Oh he couldn't fix it for £100, he knocked me a load off the labour from the timing belt change because that didn't fix it. I'd been considering whether to actually do that or not and at the time he'd said he was so confident that would fix it he wouldn't charge me if it didn't - then it didn't! He was brilliant - very honest and more than fair from the start.