Chat > Guides & Projects
ROV - Project underway
zpyder:
Frame by Chris_Moody, on Flickr
Frame is built. Camera in the mail. Just sourcing the electronic parts.
Decided to drill holes in each of the connecting pieces on the tubing. Intention is to cable tie everything together. This way, if at a later date something needs changing, I can do it fairly easily. Plus, the tubing is polypropylene, and not PVC, so solvent weld doesn't work D'OH!
Tomorrow I'll be popping to a local chandlery to see if they can do any cheap bilge pump motors. I also have to sort out the floats, which are currently "curing" outside (milliputted some end caps onto some larger diameter tubing to seal them).
Then it'll be a case of figuring out the best wiring solutions for the motors, and how to handle the GoPro+WiFi set up. I'm tempted to try and improve the simple flick-switch toggles in the Bucket ROV guide, and get something that at least has an intermediate power setting. I'm thinking more powerful bilge motors (guide reckons 500gallons an hour, I'm thinking 1000). If I can control the motor speed, it'll give me the option in the water to maintain a steady pace/speed, or a burst of power etc.
M3ta7h3ad:
Have you checked the range of WiFi underwater? At 2.4ghz it's microwave which has absolutely crap transmission through water.
Hell that's how it is used for cooking. I've a suspicion that your lucky if it's a few feet.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
zpyder:
The plan is to encase a small Netgear WNCE2001 repeater in resin and situate it as close to the camera as possible, IE, <2cm if possible. This will be linked by ethernet in the tether to a router on the surface, which will connect to an android tablet running the GoPro App, allowing live video feed.
It can be done ;)
Opting for this, rather than a CCTV type of setup, as the picture quality will be better, I can use the camera for other things, and not having any cables going in or out of the camera housing will mean that there is much less chance of the camera flooding.
zpyder:
Doesn't bode well...
--- Quote ---09/09/2013 10:00 Goods Not Received At Del Depo Poole 1
09:16 Hub Mis-Sort Poole 1
07/09/2013 05:00 Poole 1
05:00 Goods Not Received At Del Depo Poole 1
04:56 Items Tracked Worcester 1
06/09/2013 21:38 Items Tracked Marston Gate Southern Hub 1
16:46 Consignment data received Croydon 1
16:32 Items Tracked Croydon 1
--- End quote ---
knighty:
are you going to have the batteries fixed to the ROV or up at the surface ?
you can get DC speed controllers for pretty cheap (about £10 each iirc)
only problem is you might need to boost the power down to them, because the signal from your controls will only be low voltage, and there'll be some voltage loss over the length of your cable, it's not a big deal tho, you can fix it by using a small resistor to send power down the cable all the time.. just enough to cancel out the losses
(so if you loose 1.8v down the cable, use a resistor to send 1.7v down it all the time)
the speed controllsrs will need waterproofing, you could just cast those in resin too tho
what's your plan for batteries ? I've got about 6,000 used laptop cells here, I could send you some if you like ? (lithium iron, foc)
EDIT:
these are the controllers I was thinking about....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREE-POST-Electric-Controller-24V350W-E-Bike-Scooter-Brushed-DC-Motor-Controller-/140928015431?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Scooters_LE&hash=item20cff6dc47
but I've just realised you'll need 2 for each motor, one for forwards and one for backwards, small/cheap controllers don;t do reverse :-(
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version