WD40... good enough to lube a chain??
Its all I have at the mo, parents bought some instead of normal 3in1 light oil like I asked.
Quote from: M3ta7h3adWD40... good enough to lube a chain??
Its all I have at the mo, parents bought some instead of normal 3in1 light oil like I asked.
No, not for serious riding, i think its dog sh*t. Go and get some decent lub - i never understood or appreciated the importance of degreasing and lubricating chains and drivetrains until it was too late and had to start replacing parts which should have lasted alot longer. (Deore LX stuff)...
WD-40 has no load-bearing ability, so you will grind your chain. Its designed as a release agent and a moisture repellant, not a lubricant.
Quote from: CeathreamhnanWD-40 has no load-bearing ability, so you will grind your chain. Its designed as a release agent and a moisture repellant, not a lubricant.
Yep, hes right, its got a piss like viscosity - it gets used [wrongly] as lub as it is used to get rid of water - it is water miscible and hence dries very quickly...
AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE.
Any tips on something relatively cheap to use instead?
Quote from: funkychicken9000Any tips on something relatively cheap to use instead?
Finish line isnt too bad... take your pick, just get a decent cycle-orientated lube and you should be fine. I used to use Gozon (sp) - that was decent.
Quote from: funkychicken9000Any tips on something relatively cheap to use instead?
You no read Maxisans posts? :lol:
The Finish Line stuff loaded with Teflon that stays when the spray drys is the stuff I like.
Quote from: CeathreamhnanQuote from: funkychicken9000Any tips on something relatively cheap to use instead?
You no read Maxisans posts? :lol:
The Finish Line stuff loaded with Teflon that stays when the spray drys is the stuff I like.
:lol: [mob guy] dona makea funa my loob![/mob]
Finish Line with teflon is as good as any other dry lube with teflon. Stateside there are plenty of brands with the same light oil, teflon, and evaporative carrier. Super-Lube and Tri-flow are a couple brand names. They work fine.
My home brew, either motor oil, or gearbox oil mixed with 30-50% spirits works great. You can use it as a chain cleaner as well, or just drop the chain into a plastic bottle with 3 ounces or so of spirits, shake, and remove to dry to clean your chain. After you lube with the mixture, wipe the outside of the chain bone dry or as close as possible. Works as well as a lot of expensive wet lube, but costs pennies. I even use it in a tiny bottle for my hair clipper. :mrgreen: After lubing, let the bike sit a bit for the spirits to evaporate, or youll get a black mess. Also, dont even think about using straight motor oil on your chain. It needs a carrier to get inside and do its job.
Wax lubes are good in my local summer conditions. Im using it exclusively now as its perfect in balmy 35c+ weather, but Ill go back to homebrew in the fall.
Id call 35DegC searing rather than balmy :P
Quote from: CeathreamhnanId call 35DegC searing rather than balmy :P
The heat index yesterday was 38. :shock: And we like it that way, dagnabbit. :lol:
Searing is when the temp, not the index, is 40+. With high humidty of course. :D
hmm... well its all I had today :(
Tried explaining this to my dad but hes having none of it. "ITS FINE! ITS WD 40 ITS AN OIL".
(http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdZoom/TB32458.jpg)
is what I had my eye on, its more viscous than wd40 and its what I think I used to use on my bike chains :) That any good?
Anything is better than WD40 - but as ive said, you need the proper stuff, unless you want to shorten the life of components, have a look on chainreaction cycles site for degreaser and lube - finish line is nice stuff - i use it on my roadie and it seems to do the job, 3 in 1 is not really up to it IMO.
3 in 1 is an oil because its a hydrophilic hydrocarbon - like sunflower oil, however its the physico-chemical properties such as viscosity etc. which make it a good or bad LUBRICANT. ;)
The reality check is that a chain lubed with 3:1 will likely last 90% as long as the one waxed with unobtanium flakes. Chains wear no matter what. Only reason I even bother lubing them is the noise factor.
Get a bottle of light viscosity motor oil if you want to step up in the world, and remind your dad, that regardless of what it says on the can, 4D40 is a solvent, albeit a solvent that leaves behind a film of very thin oil, meant to protect, not lube.
Also worth looking at: chain saw oil and Boeshield. (http://www.boeshield.com/)
Faiiiiirrrrrr nuff then matey :)
Oh and just a side question... theres a fancy doohicky by the pedals (think its called the bottom bracket) well theres a wierd metal plate there with notches in... mine was spinning freely on the thread, so I did it up using some molegrips as tight as I can turn it, is that fine?? or is it meant to be turning freely? Pedals seem to rotate alright.
Ah, you have traditional cup and cones down there. Super easy to service if you have a hook and pin spanner. The outside lockrings do need to be secure. See parktoo.com for repair details if needed.
pfft @ hook and pin spanner.
1 Adjustable Wrench.
Get decent purchase on over two notches (my wrench opens rather wide! :o), and turn away to your hearts content :) at least thats what I ended up doing to tighten it, undoes that way too :D lol.
Cone and cup is a good thing then??
oh and just bought a hell of a lot of stuff on ebay :| eek.
Toggle switches, Cabling rated for 17.5amps, solder, crimp tool + stuffs, mr16 holders, and........
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150002320795&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005
Always wanted a chain cleaning tool :) now I have the right gear to do it properly, and it comes with lube :) sorted... so when I next get some finish line stuff I can just apply it with the chain cleaner tool :D
btw... the above electrical thingy... is all bike related too :) Was damn tempted to buy an old 12v Daimler car horn too ;)
slap on the 3in1 its certainly better than nothing and works OK providing you dont go allng roads with sand or something similaron them ;)