1994 vintage, the one I found used a while back. Some rail discoloration, otherwise as new.

I mounted it up and was very impressed. Same cutaway design as a Flite, but vastly improved padding, and even little plastic bumpers in case you drop the bike.

Can be had for $70 or so if you shop around. Not so common, but worth seeking out if youre having rump issues. Its only good for bikes where you have the bars lower than the saddle, btw.

Schhttooop!!!

This saddle is not ready yet!
Where is the penile groove?  Where is the Kevlar?  Why is it actually fixing the fridge!!!

Where is the gloop based padding?

Firm saddles with smooth tops > weiner channels, and seams that chafe.

Just did a 20 miler on it and there is full feeling below.

Softer saddles=more deflection and wang compression. :shock:

Tbh, Ive ridden with tat bmx full plastic saddles and never lost feeling down there, I think its a con.

Youd get sore ischia before you got numb wang as with a bmx saddle youre not sinking in at all.

Its more common with roadies, as we tend to sit and spin for longer periods. Those late eighties Vetta touring saddles used to be the worst! Your bits would go all cold and corpsey.

The problem is bending close to the frame on a racing bike tends to trap your bits between your body, legs and seat. Doesnt seem to be a problem on mountain bikes where the speed isnt as important so peeps tend to sit up a lot more rather than go for the aerodynamic option.

Proper mtb fit for freeriding entails a leaned over position as well. I personally like my mtb bars 1-2" below the saddle--even my flat bar city bike is set up this way. Its better for your back and upright positions dont allow for the maximum force of your gluteus maximus to be used. You can get cold wang from even a relatively upright position if the saddle is wrong.