[Edit] Now fully finished (http://www.tekforums.co.uk/posts/list/30/3236.page#36675), with new wheels, tyres and brakes
Well, I say finished... its not actually rideable at the moment, but Ill get to that in a minute. Picture time! Click for big. 56k users go home to your mummies.
Painted bits:
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0428%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0428.JPG)
BB, HS, cranks and forks fitted:
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0429%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0429.JPG)
Looking a bit more like a bike:
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0430%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0430.JPG)
All done:
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0431%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0431.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0432%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0432.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0433%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0433.JPG)
Check my fly painting
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0434%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0434.JPG)
...and my not so fly painting
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0435%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0435.JPG)
I mentioned earlier its not rideable. Basically, I get on it and hear some creaking. Turns out the rear wheel has gone to pot, loads of spokes are silly loose. Also, the freewheel now sounds like its full of sand, and doesnt look user serviceable. Any suggestions?
Im seriously considering getting some different wheels, ally rims would be nice. But Im struggling to justify them having spent Ã,£12 on getting this rear wheel undished. Also, the brakes are pissing me off a lot as they never centre properly. Really trying not to buy some mirage callis :cry:
Ah, they match beautifully :D
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0436%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0436.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0440%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0440.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0441%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0441.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0442%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0442.JPG)
very nice - clean and simple, good work.
EDIT: just not too keen on amber walls!
Very nice job on the paint! 8) Did ya clear coat it as well?
On the subject of wheel upgrades, if those are 27" currently, looks like youre got plenty of room to drop the brake pads 4mm to fit 700c. You dont need a SS rear wheel, just use a Shimano DX bmx cog with some pvc plumbing pipe as a spacer. Spray it black of course. Sometimes you can find modern alloy 27" wheels on sale for super cheap, so dont rule it out. Dont piss away money on boutique wheels unless you find a great deal, Regular 32H stoff is plenty light and strong enough for anybody.
Freewheel: you can usually remove the seal on the bmx jobbers with an xacto knife, then flush and lube.
Brakes: best and cheapest choice are some Tektro dual pivot long reach brakes (http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR407E03-Tektro+Long+Reach+Road+Caliper+Set.aspx). I run them my buddy Dan runs them (hes a pro wrench) and everybody and their mother uses them as theyre cheap and stop great. They work peachily with your new levers. They require drilling out frame and fork, see my thread (http://tekforums.co.uk/posts/list/2858.page) about it. Takes only a couple minutes. Highly recommended.
Again, props on a sweet looking paint job, its only downhill from here. Chips away. :lol:
I didnt clearcoat it, as I got fed up with painting after the 6,000,000 coats I put on that thing. I used Hammerite though, which is pretty darn tough stuff and doesnt really need clearcoating according to my LBS.
As for the wheels, theyve got 700C tyres so Im guessing the wheels are 700c too. I dont want to spend a lot of money though, got any suggestions for cheap stuff, or should I just keep an eye on fleabay? As for using a BMX cog, presumably youre reccomending a freehub type wheel then? How do they compare pricewise?
[edit] oh and badabing, the amber walls are temporary. Theyre only on there until I pluck up the courage to buy some of the yellow tyres you guys love so much :lol:
Quote from: funkychicken9000As for the wheels, theyve got 700C tyres so Im guessing the wheels are 700c too. I dont want to spend a lot of money though, got any suggestions for cheap stuff, or should I just keep an eye on fleabay? As for using a BMX cog, presumably youre reccomending a freehub type wheel then? How do they compare pricewise?
Pricewise, its pretty random. FW wheels will be nice in that theyll have teh proper spacing (126mm), but theyll require the dishing nonsense to fit a bmx freewheel. Plus: the undishing makes em stronger. FH wheels are 130mm, so can be tricky to fit unless you
cold set the frame or spring it apart. Mounting a DX cog is simple, but it can be a PITA to source spacers and a lockring, if you aint got them in your bucket o fun.
My last set of SS wheels cost a hooge $100. :lol: They were OK
Mavic CXP22s on horrid 2200 hubs, so required fresh bearings, grease, and a true n tune to become $200 wheels. :lol: 3K on them since I tweaked them, and still within 0.2mm of true. 8)
It looks the sex mate.
Well nice looking bike there, and the "not so fly" doesnt look that bad either. Well done on the paint job :)
Bending the frame+forks sounds like things could go very wrong very quickly. Not ideal on a new paintjob either :S
Ill experiment on this wheel and see if I can get it sorted myself. Otherwise its looking like Im going to have to spend Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£. Toss. :roll:
Im gonna order me some brakes to cheer me up. Then go ringing round some pubs to see if they need bar staff :x
Quote from: funkychicken9000Bending the frame+forks sounds like things could go very wrong very quickly. Not ideal on a new paintjob either :S
Nah, Ive done it many times, its easy. You just need to spread the rear 4mm, which is something like half a degree. Or just spring it apart and dont be bothered. :lol:
QuoteIll experiment on this wheel and see if I can get it sorted myself. Otherwise its looking like Im going to have to spend Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£. Toss. :roll:
Build up your existing hubs if they aint rotten, or if youre feeling frisky, find some new rims with close to the same inside diameter, and transfer the spokes one by one. Using an electric driver from the back of course. :P
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/details.asp?D=P&Cat=WHEELS%20-%20FACTORY&Section=WHFR&GenCode=SHIMWHFR0900
Cheapest set of shimano FH wheels I can find new. Ebay has toss all at the moment.
There is this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/700c-Mavic-C-osmic-Wheelset_W0QQitemZ200012326923QQihZ010QQcategoryZ58089QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) though. "Slight rim damage" looks more like its completely shafted to me, but if I got the rear rebuilt on a new rim, reckon it would be worth it? Is it difficult to source rims with low spoke counts like that?
Low spoke count wheels with proprietary bits are the biggest pile of bullsh*t cycling has seen in the last decade. A hand built set of 32/28 spoke front and rear, with off the shelf components, is almost always lighter, cheaper, more durable, and easier to service. That said, the Tiagra set is cheap enough to make it worthwhile as a disposable set. Youre a flyweight anyway, so super wheel strength isnt as important as it is to a beefcake like myself. :lol:
The rear wheel on Ebay you linked to is indeed completely shafted. Not worth the trouble. Run away.
So, in short, if you can pick up a pair of low spokers for peanuts, why not. Theyre wheels, they work, you might even think that they bring out the pink in your cheeks. But if youre plannning on spending $200+ on a wheelset for daily use, have a wheelsmith build you a set or get some prebuilts with standard parts, and have them hand-turned.
Yeah Id rather avoid low spoke count wheels, but just looking at ribbles prices for handbuilt wheels, the cheapest (CXP22 laced on sora) is Ã,£79. Tiagra on Open sports are Ã,£85, or Ã,£104 if you want open pros instead. Ã,£65 for the tiagra wheelset seems more favourable, sort of. I dunno what theyre like though :?
With those sort of economics, it makes sense to get the Tiagras. I have a strong opinion against such wheels for philosophical reasons, but Id buy them were they cheap enough. :lol:
My current SS wheelset is Sora hubs + CXP22s, as a matter of fact. Its a hella durable, if heavy, wheelset. Sora hubs are fine if you put real bearings in them. :lol: The stock ones are verging on cubic. :P Cost me 52 UK squid in translation for front and rear. After an initial tuning by moi, theyve gone 3K w/o even thinking about going out of round. 8)
The Tiagras are likely good enough, but according to Road Bike Review--the assembly quality can be shocking. If you get them, most def check and correct the spoke tension.
http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/wheels/wheelsets/shimano/PRD_366355_2490crx.aspx
Maxey, what you reckon to these (http://www.bikeplus.co.uk/cgi-bin/quikstore.pl?store=&search=yes&detail=yes&product=WH03&category=&keywords=Wheels_and_rims%20700c%20&hits_seen=&page=search.html&and=1&affiliate_id=)? Theyll be an extra Ã,£15-Ã,£20ish over the R500s with delivery I think...
look like his & his bikes to me ;)
Hah, a gay gag.
Quote from: funkychicken9000Maxey, what you reckon to these? Theyll be an extra Ã,£15-Ã,£20ish over the R500s with delivery I think...
I dont know those rims, but the photo is deceptive. They list the hubs as being 2200, which is Sora level or a little worse, pretty much horrid hubs unless you rebuild them first thing. In the pic, though, they show the wheel built up with Tiagra level hubs, according to what the dust seals look like.
2200TiagraSo I dont know the rim or what hub youll be getting, so probably sketchy at best.
Quote from: funkychicken9000Hah, a gay gag.
Only if you push it in too far. :mrgreen:
Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£
This (http://www.cyclebasket.com/products.php?show=1410) is a good price on a shimano 105 wheel set. Since Ive got to order the brakes from them anyway, figured the extra Ã,£20 for a altogether more pimp set of wheels might be worth it? Sooooo, tektro long reach callis, 105 wheelset, sensible 25mm tyres, tubes and rimtapes for Ã,£118inc. Gulp :shock:
...or Ã,£98 for the lot, with R500s instead of the R550s. FFS why does it all have to be so complicated! Thing is, the R550s have even less spokes! Still get mixed reviews too (although they seem better on average than the R500).
Id save the jack and get the R500s if youre going the low spoke route anyway. Anything above Tiagra, and youre paying mainly for finish and weight, not engineering. There are a few exceptions to this of course.
On the one hand, its a pretty obscene amount to spend on an old Peugeot, but on the other, its a wheeset that can follow you around for a while.
I wouldnt say that a brake upgrade is cruicial, if you can stop fine atm. Dual pivots over a slight mechanical advantage, but my personal reason for upgrading was to have fresh kit with unfrozen barrel adjusters--and brakes that are easy to center. The fact that I can lock either end from the hoods is an added feature. :P
Sounds like decent used parts are rare in your neck of the woods. Even here in Butcher Holler you can wait a week and pick up a set of slightly used quality mtb wheels and tires for $50. :lol: Road wheels are a little harder to find. :P
EDIT:
Lets take stock. Are your wheels round and true? No, ya got spoke issues in rear. Was it the wrench that fubared it or did you do some crazy riding? If no, then take it back and be polite and ask about the issue. They may very well tighten you up on the house with an apology or tell you that the rim is fuxored. Hopefully its the former.
So a more fitting upgrade would be to just get some new rubber. Shop around, as 27" tires should cost peanuts.
That would leave plenty of money for some bling brakes. I like the cheapie Tektros as theyre functionally A+, but there might be a better choice in the UK, or even something used. If youre feeling very cheap but want mackdaddiness, then buy a cheap buffing wheel for your bench grinder and shine up the current set.
Its easy to get carried away and get a pile of shiny stuff you dont really need. Ride the bike as is a few weeks and see what really bugs you. Fix that, as youve already dealt with the primary aesthetics of the beast.
Too bad youll miss the end of this auction:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pair-of-27-36-spoke-Wheels-Campagnola-Wobler_W0QQitemZ140013438754QQihZ004QQcategoryZ56197QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Yeah, I pretty much came to similar conclusions when I went to bed last night. R550s are out, but R500s are still a possible on my list.
Thing is, my current rims are steel and hence the braking is balls whatever pads I use (switching to koolstop continentals certainly didnt improve things on my last peugeot, and the breaking felt like it might have even been a little less meaty). As such it seems silly to keep pouring money into them when theyre always going to be poo. I had already seen those wolbers you linked to, but going from 700C to 27" seems superficially to be a bit of a downgrade. Either way, they went for more than they were worth to me, as Id have to spend another Ã,£12 getting them undished. I think the best solution at the moment is to go out and get splendid with the spoke wrench, see if I can improve the situation any. If not, Ill then make the decision about whether to leave it until I get back to uni to get the shop to take a look at it again, or whether to shell out on new wheels and spread the frame.
As for brakes, its the centering that really pisses me off. Whatever I do, the brakes will only hold position for a few minutes before eventually I find myself leaning behind me while I ride and pulling the cali over to stop it grazing the rim. Ive fully dissassembled and greased them and its still a problem, so I cant see any other way round it for now. But that said, theres no point buying brakes until I know where Im at with the wheels. So Ill see how my spoke wrenchin goes.
:lol: I keep forgetting that you have 700c steelies. We never saw them stateside. North American bikes all got 27" wheels back in the early 80s save a few upper end bikes.
Youll LOVE centering dual-pivots. Theres a tiny 2-3mm hex screw up top of the calipers that will fine tune centering. Takes seconds. They walk over single pivots on that strength alone.
As far as wheels go, just keep your eyes peeled for a deal, though the low spoke Tiagra wheels are a dang good deal despite the stoopid proprietary spokes. :lol:
Yeah, Ive got mirage DPs on my ribble and the 2mm centering screw is an absolute boon. Pleased to hear the tektros have them too :)
Everything but the finish on the Tektros is spectacular--especially considering the money. The finish is blah. I might have to get a buffing wheel and shine mine up. Its funny, they make brakes for Cane Creek, and the $120 dollar calipers for CC are functionally identical to the ones that cost $40, except for the finish. $80 buys a lot of polishing compound. :D
Rock on! (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280012930256) Sensible, strong wheels that have barely been used for a sensible price. :nana: :rock: :cheers:
Also, do I want one of these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Single-Speed-Conversion-Kit-8-9-Speed-Compatible_W0QQitemZ300013492294QQihZ020QQcategoryZ42329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)? Theres loads of them on fleabay and they seem to go for on or around the start price. Make sense?
36H OpenPros on Tiagra. Now THAT is a set of mothercopulating wheels, my friend. :ptu: No gimmicks, that set will last you till the 110 y/o Emperor George nukes the UK in a freak age related accident in the year 2056. :lol:
The conversion kits main draw is that it comes with a chain tensioner. As you have dropouts that allow for this, its not really needed. However, sourcing the cog, spacers, and lockring may cost more. Your call. You can also use 1 1/2" inside diameter PVC plumbing pipe as a spacer. Cut to size, and spray your choice of color.
Again, nice wheels, you just cant get more reliable than socketed non-anodized Openpros. :ptu:
You are going to have to spring the rear drops out by 4mm, if thats difficult, you will have to cold set the frame. Youll probably want a shop to align your dropouts to parallel with the special Park (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=40) tool after than if you dont feel like eyeballing it wit a huge crescent wrench.
Dunno if that link is fubared, but Im not seeing a chain tensioner. Just a lockring, 3 spacers and 18t and 16t cogs. Anyway, Ill probably get one as its not too expensive and Im not sure if the wheels come with a lockring.
As for bending the frame, Ill give the more friendly of the local bike shops a ring tomorrow and ask them if theyll do it cheap. I wouldnt have thought the dropout alignment will be too critical tbh, as theyre pretty bendy anyway but Ill see how it goes.
Yay! Time to get some brakes and tyres. Spend spend spend! Oh btw, 13mm or 17mm rimtapes for the OP? What you reckon?
Oops, they always come with a tensioner over here. Made in Taiwan by the Pyramid brand, comes in a baggie and costs $15-20. :P
Get it, unless you can bum a lockring and some spacers from your LBS.
Well, you might be spending, but youre getting wheels that can be used on the Ribble if you tire of the Peugeot or dont want to be arsed fixing a flat. You can just adjust the Ribbles rear mech to ride on the single cog and use it as a tensioner.
Those wheels would have cost 100 squid + spokes and labor to have built. About 130 total with the way things are priced over here. :shock: Feel better now?
And heres the real funny part: they weigh pabout 100 stinkeen grams more than some "high end" Shimano or Cane Creek kit. 100g. OMG. :lol:
Finally got hold of the wheels, and theyre lovely. Double butted spokes, and 100% true. And, seems that I can just spring the frame and forks apart and they go in fine 8)
Tomorrow I drill for the brakes and pump the tyres up, and its finally 100% complete :nana:
nice one fc9k :) piccies of it complete must be done :) yellow tyres yet?? :)
Gave the yellow tyres a miss. Wanted it a bit more subtle + minimalist.
So:
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0468%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0468.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0469%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0469.JPG)
(http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0473%20(Small).JPG) (http://www.fc9k.co.uk/images/bike/CIMG0473.JPG)
Weight seems to be about 19lb.
Double butted spokes FTW :mrgreen:
Really impressed with the brakes too. No idea what you meant about poor finish max, these ones seem fantastic. Nice touches like the rubber o-ring round the cable stop are cool too. And theyre silly light, thought they were hollow at first :D
lovely stuff.
well done. 8)
Feels like a new bike! Dont know whether its the new properly-fitting stem or the superstrong wheels but now it feels like the ribble; when you pull up on one side of the bars as you push down the power there is no flex whatsoever. Incredible! Feels a lot more pointy and connected.
nice nice bike there mate, would have no idea that it was just a peugeot thing before! :) looks sexy as hell :D
SchwING! :D :lol:
Pretty and solid state. Shes a looker and a rider, soft tits, and an iron twat, the village shall be duly impressed as am I. :lol:
Ive got the lesser finished Tektros, which are sold under various other brands, when Tektro uses their own name on stuff, they tend to buff it out a bit. Difference is brake shoes, finish, and mine has an all aluminum adjustment barrel.
Nice rear brake cable routing, as the new dual pivots have the pull on the opposite side. :lol:
The double butted spokes weight is really a non-issue, reason that theyre cool is that they flex a bit, giving a better ride, and even more important-that "give" makes the wheel much more resiliant. Basically, what you paid for both those wheels, is what just the spokes would have cost had you built from scratch. :thumbup:
Now my ride looks sh*t in comparison. You basteward!
Edit: nice "quick link" in the last photie. :rofl:
Quote from: maximusotterEdit: nice "quick link" in the last photie. :rofl:
Lol, 50p from the LBS at uni :D Its meant to be like that, the "bolt" is profiled and only threaded at the very end. Looks hilarious though :lol:
Isnt that his half link that he needed to adjust the chainline a touch??
Quote from: M3ta7h3adIsnt that his half link that he needed to adjust the chainline a touch??
Indeed.