Got some basic Tektros on sale for $20 for both front and rear--the same dang model that most sub $1000 bikes come with these days with various phony logos. Amazing quality for the rediculously small price.
Bike was ancient so had old Shimano 600 nutted brakes. Had to drill out brake bridge, fork, and a few curved washers. Murphy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy%27s_law) did not strike, it was easy as pie, with no wierd surprises.
They grip like a crackwhores premium $50 HJ. :thumbup:
(http://static.flickr.com/44/193502228_7880576147_o.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/47/193502227_c2cf93a12b_o.jpg)
Is it easy to convert nutted frames to allen bolt then? Its something Id definately consider for my SS as you can get the same black anodised Mirage DP callis I have on my ribble for like Ã,£25 on fleabay :o
Took an hour, just had to drill out brake bridge and BACK of fork to 8mm or 5/16" if thats the only bit you can find. I recycled a couple curved washers from the old set to make it all fit smoothly. I drilled out one curved washer, the one that the recessed bolt goes through.
Make sure you get the appropriate reach brake, its measured from center of brake bolt to center of braking surface. These Tektros max out at 56mm.
Are crackwhores much more clenchy than normal whores then? :lol: Its all relative considering your 2 cmsquare of ground contact :P
Quote from: maximusotterTook an hour, just had to drill out brake bridge and BACK of fork to 8mm or 5/16" if thats the only bit you can find. I recycled a couple curved washers from the old set to make it all fit smoothly. I drilled out one curved washer, the one that the recessed bolt goes through.
Make sure you get the appropriate reach brake, its measured from center of brake bolt to center of braking surface. These Tektros max out at 56mm.
Did you not come in to problems with length of the retaining nuts etc? Sheldon makes it sound more complicated if you buy a set (front + rear).
Drill out, install as normal. Sheldon makes it sound much too complicated.
You can alternately use the front in the rear, nutted, and mount the rear up front with the nut inside the fork.
Quote from: CeathreamhnanAre crackwhores much more clenchy than normal whores then? :lol:
Its the grip of desperation. Also useful for stuck oil filters.
QuoteIts all relative considering your 2 cmsquare of ground contact :P
Beats buzzing like a bee. I
do need to take it easy on the new rubber till the mold release wears off...
I must say, theres nothing more annoying than squeaky brakes. :hunf:
Quote from: maximusottermount the rear up front with the nut inside the fork.
Yowzers. Dont like the sound of that :shock:
Its easier to just drill out, tbh. Its just an old Peugeot, albeit a snazzy and freshly painted one, not a vintage Masi, so no need to clench your ass cheeks. All youre doing is enlarging an existing hole 2mm.
I can walk you thought it step by step if you decide to go through with it.
Curses! If I spend the money and grab a new set of brakes, the ONLY original parts on my SS would be the frame, forks, BB, wheels and bars. The whole drivetrain and stem are new, and the seatpost and saddle were changed when I got the bike :D
Its not that much of an improvement in braking, more like an improvement in braking ease. I figured with that extraordinary sale I found, it was like buying pads and getting calipers for free. :lol:
Quote from: funkychicken9000Curses! If I spend the money and grab a new set of brakes, the ONLY original parts on my SS would be the frame, forks, BB, wheels and bars. The whole drivetrain and stem are new, and the seatpost and saddle were changed when I got the bike :D
Original parts on my SS:
frame, fork, stem, crank, post, BB spindle.
replaced:
BB bearings, h-bars, headset, brakes & levers, wheels, pedals, saddle.
jettisoned:
f/r derailleur, shift levers, and all them geary bits.
:lol:
The aggregate total price of the current amalgam of bits is about $300, but Id be lucky to get something new with the same spec for $1000. My SSs a rider, not a looker. :P