The clutch on my Audi has gone :(
A clutch kit is £150, so not so bad you would think...
but then discover it has some stupid dual mass flywheel which should be replaced when the clutch goes :w00t: yay!
they cost £400 :o
SOoo to do it myself will cost £550 and probably a weekend and then some.
popped into a garage on the way home from work and they said £900-£1000 to do it.
I am not sure what to do really, I think the car is at the age and milage (125,000 and 11years) where I think it is just going to be problem after problem from now on.
I dont really have enough cash to buy anything much better without getting finance and I could do without more debt really.
And I dont want to throw good cash after bad at this car anymore.
Any ideas?
Similar position with our Accord. 2005, 92k and the clutch is going. Same DMF too.
AND you need to drop the subframe to get at it.
So, £440 for a clutch kit, £400 for a DMF.
At least you can go for a solid conversion and not have to bother ever again.
Quote from: soopahfly on January 17, 2011, 20:18:27 PM
Similar position with our Accord. 2005, 92k and the clutch is going. Same DMF too.
AND you need to drop the subframe to get at it.
So, £440 for a clutch kit, £400 for a DMF.
At least you can go for a solid conversion and not have to bother ever again.
solid conversion only saves £50, so may aswell go dmf if it will last another 125k.
I have no problem getting the clutch done I just dont want to spend a grand doing it and then the fuel pump goes and I have a break warning light on which could cost a bomb to get the ABS unit referb'd if it is a certain fault code.
buy a small cheap diesel & run it on red.
Sell/trade it in for a 90's BMW 325 tds and welcome yourself into the world of cheap veg oil motoring
I was going to say whack it straight in the auction with a modest reserve and give up now, and don't throw that sort of cash at a B5
Quote from: DEViANCE on January 17, 2011, 20:36:04 PM
I have no problem getting the clutch done I just dont want to spend a grand doing it and then the fuel pump goes and I have a break warning light on which could cost a bomb to get the ABS unit referb'd if it is a certain fault code.
Question.
Is the car actually worth £900 to you? If not then scrap it and get a different one with the money.
The car is worth more than £900 in working order probably near £2000.
I think I am going to get the £150 clutch kit get it all stripped down and check for play in the DMF it needs to be between 15-30mm anymore or less and it needs changing.
See how it goes.
botch it & knock it on
You're after a car I gather, Bacon? ;D
Surely you don't have to replace the DMF just because they advise to, if there's nothing wrong with it surely it's best left alone anyway?
QuoteWhat would you do?
a little dance.
Quote from: Clock'd 0Ne on January 19, 2011, 00:06:54 AM
You're after a car I gather, Bacon? ;D
Surely you don't have to replace the DMF just because they advise to, if there's nothing wrong with it surely it's best left alone anyway?
I wouldn't buy another B5 :P
The solid conversion SEEMS like a good idea, but you really notice it imo.
Gear changes are so much smoother with it. If it's like any modern clutches with DMF's I've done, you sometimes need more than just a simple alignment tool.
Also, modern diesels are designed with DMF in mind, so you're potentially looking at more wear to gearbox, driveshafts, engine mounts, etc etc
If the DMF isn't going (vibration at idle for example) just leave it.
Quote from: Mark on January 19, 2011, 21:32:28 PM
If the DMF isn't going (vibration at idle for example) just leave it.
Here's one for you then, as I'm pretty clueless.
Our clutch doesn't seem to slip but it judders when you're setting off.
Doesn't do it all the time, but gets worse in cold weather.
Quote from: soopahfly on January 19, 2011, 21:50:45 PM
Quote from: Mark on January 19, 2011, 21:32:28 PM
If the DMF isn't going (vibration at idle for example) just leave it.
Here's one for you then, as I'm pretty clueless.
Our clutch doesn't seem to slip but it judders when you're setting off.
Doesn't do it all the time, but gets worse in cold weather.
my Renault Kangoo van does that, and it also has a slight pulsing vibration at idle so I have always assumed the DMF is abit worn.
Quote from: soopahfly on January 19, 2011, 21:50:45 PM
Quote from: Mark on January 19, 2011, 21:32:28 PM
If the DMF isn't going (vibration at idle for example) just leave it.
Here's one for you then, as I'm pretty clueless.
Our clutch doesn't seem to slip but it judders when you're setting off.
Doesn't do it all the time, but gets worse in cold weather.
DMF more likely to produce shudder during acceleration, lumpy idle, squeaky noise on downshift. Might make a rattly noise when you turn the car off too.
Made a start on it last night, it was a cold, long night didn't get in untill 23.45.
Got a good bit done, a crazy amount of stuff has to be removed for the gearbox to come off.
and carried on this morning, it is going well tbh but I am just having a dilema about the flywheel..
do i risk it and save £400 with the possibility it will fail very soon after.
anyway, some pics of the progress.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-20192845.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-20192901.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-21232046.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-22102951.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-22102943.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-22103013.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-22103059.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-22111313.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/robdav99/audi/2011-01-22111801.jpg)
decisions decisions
You're lucky to be able to do this. I'm at a point of throwing it at a garage with large handfuls of cash.
Although, it's £595 for Honda to do it (excluding DMF) as part of their Honda Happiness scheme.
I wouldnt bother using a dealer far to expensive, should be looking sub £400 for just the clutch.
These DMF are pissing me off, the original on mine feels very solid and can only move it a few mm by hand but I dont know how much leverage they use to test the sub 30mm rule, but dont want it to fail in the future and dont want to spend nearly a weeks wages on a new one.
Quote from: soopahfly on January 22, 2011, 11:37:43 AM
You're lucky to be able to do this. I'm at a point of throwing it at a garage with large handfuls of cash.
Although, it's £595 for Honda to do it (excluding DMF) as part of their Honda Happiness scheme.
If it's that big a concern you really need to get the gearbox sorted and sell, the longer you leave it the more likely you are to end up with a worthless car. Get it running, get it swapped.
personally.... I wouldn't worry about it....
or... can you get a normal flywheel for it for cheaper ?
i converted all my transits back to normal flywheels when I've done the clutches on them... i prefer them, can;t tell the difference when you're driving... and it was about half the price of a DMF :o
This seems interesting, DMF most of the time needs to be changed with every clutch change, starting in second really wears them down.
http://www.civinfo.com/forum/engines-transmission/22468-clutch-judder-not-slipping-dmf.html
People shouldn't be moving off in 2nd unless they're rolling I thought, it puts strain on something?
I've just stuck the new clutch on.
I am struggling to get the gearbox back on atm, its a heavy SOB and it just wont line up properly.
Quote from: Clock'd 0Ne on January 22, 2011, 14:26:13 PM
People shouldn't be moving off in 2nd unless they're rolling I thought, it puts strain on something?
I was thinking of the winter driving advices (which I believe are wrong though)
Quote from: DEViANCE on January 22, 2011, 15:00:53 PM
I've just stuck the new clutch on.
I am struggling to get the gearbox back on atm, its a heavy SOB and it just wont line up properly.
did you use a clutch centring tool ? to centre the clutch on the flywheel ? if the centre of the clutch isn't lined up properly with the bearing in the centre of the flywheel you'll never get it in....
other than that.... just keep jiggling it till it goes in :-(
I once couldn't get the gearbox back in a transit no matter what I did.... ended up taking the engine out thinking there was something wrong... (engine out is a piece of cake on a transit) I lined them up on the floor to have a look... couldn't see anything wrong so slod them closer... and the gearbox slid straight on wihtout even trying!
Good effort, not sure id have what it takes to do that
I had a clutch and DMF on a boxster, they showed me the old DMF and there was a ton of movement in it, could really tell when driving though.
Yesterday was a write off due to a monster hangover so I 'forgot' to go to work today so I could finish it off.
After an hour or so this morning and a nice halfords clutch alignment tool the gearbox and engine are now back together :nana:
Used a combination of jack and bricks under the gearbox and scaff plank and rope from above and it slid together nicely.
Just need to bolt everything back together and put all the bits I had to take apart back on, hopefully will be done by this evening.
got it all done eventually, once the box was on it was pretty easy although I did go through a phase of losing nuts and bolt into the V of the engine :twisted:
drives nicely although it will take a while to get used to the bite as it is very stong now.
Not 100% happy with the feel of the clutch peddle it is very soft and doesnt feel like it returns up properly, could be a hydralic problem?