Cant get the fricking thing off for love nor money. Been trying with something that looks like the bottom thing in this picture:
(http://rubberimpex.com/images/RubberParts/JS0010/BicycleParts/BicycleDF11HangingBagWith2PiecesOfForkSpanner_jpg.jpg)
Its got a c-spannery thing on the top edge. Ive been hooking that in the notches and tonking it with a hammer but it aint budging. Pretty sure Im doing it in the right direction as I can see half a thread and it looks like its standard RH. Anyone got any idea how to get the damn thing off?
As an aside, I took the frame into a bike shop in town (at home now, not been to this one before), and the conversation went something like this:
Me: Hi. Im having a bit of trouble getting this lockring off. Reckon you could give it a try?
Him: Yeah. Leave it with us, itll be done by tomorrow.
Me: Well, can I bring it back tomorrow morning and get it done then?
Him: Sure. Thatll be Ã,£10.
Me: You what now?!
Him: If you want us to do it, youve got to pay us money.
Me: I appreciate that, but theres no way you can justify Ã,£10!
Him: Oh, you need special tools.
Me: Yeah, a C-spanner.
Him: We dont use a C-spanner.
Me: Right, so what do you use? Can I buy one?
Him: Special tools. And no.
I left, choking back the tears.
lol, pwnd
Make sure youre working from the non-drive side (left) and youll need a pin spanner (or creativity) to adjust the cones.
Lefty loosey, and remember that most of the adustment and unscrewing of bits is on non-drive side.
Soak the threads in penetrating lube for a few hours. ;)
Gave it a liberal spraying with WD and me and me dad had another go. Trapped it between blocks of hardwood in a vice and still it would rather tear through wood than turn. Then tried shocking it with a hammer and a small spanner stuck in one of the notches, finally it came free.
The bearings are in a retainer though which I wasnt expecting, is that usual in a BB? Also for some reason all the peugeot headsets Ive dismantled have had retained bearings in the bottom and loose uns in the top, seems a weird convention :?
The balls themselves look fine, as do the cups. Theres one pit on one end of the spindle though, maybe 1mm accross where its a bit rough. Cant see that its worth changing really, unless it makes a huge difference?
Doubt if it would make that much difference to bother with, wash it out with solvent and repack with new grease when you are finished though.
Sme of those things are really tight but I have never had to get up to those sort of antics to gain access ;)
Quote from: SeriousDoubt if it would make that much difference to bother with, wash it out with solvent and repack with new grease when you are finished though.
Sme of those things are really tight but I have never had to get up to those sort of antics to gain access ;)
Threadlocker probably.
And grease?! I was just gonna give it a wipe and screw it all back up tbh :?
Some are supposedly self lubricating but I havent seen any. Better to be safe than sorry and there should be some lube on the bearings anyway. TBH there is a wide range of other options out there but I have always used grease.
As the bearings roll they wear tiny amounts of metal off that slowly turns the lube into cutting compound, getting rid of that is worthwhile
Quote from: SeriousI have always used grease.
Wossat then? :D
Retainers are pretty much the norm with such bearings, but you can replace them with loose ball and use more balls than before. I wouldnt bother if the current ones are shiny. Small chance in hell in having an easy time sourcing a new spindle, and Im surprised its just got one pit in it. Cones are always the first to go. Cones, then cups, then finally bearings. You can alternately replace the entire shebang with a cartridge BB.
Get a tub of automotive wheel bearing grease, or better yet, some marine trailer wheel bearing grease, as its even more viscous. Itll cost you 1/10th that of "bicycle grease" which is sort of a joke. :P
Quote from: maximusotterRetainers are pretty much the norm with such bearings, but you can replace them with loose ball and use more balls than before. I wouldnt bother if the current ones are shiny. Small chance in hell in having an easy time sourcing a new spindle, and Im surprised its just got one pit in it. Cones are always the first to go. Cones, then cups, then finally bearings. You can alternately replace the entire shebang with a cartridge BB.
Get a tub of automotive wheel bearing grease, or better yet, some marine trailer wheel bearing grease, as its even more viscous. Itll cost you 1/10th that of "bicycle grease" which is sort of a joke. :P
I thought about a cartridge BB, but thats a tenner plus another fiver for the tool. I reckon Ill just live with knowing its not 100% perfect for now :D
As for grease, I already bought a squeezy tube of only slightly extortionate stuff when I was hurriedly finishing a headset service at uni, but my dad will doubtless have loads of marine stuff kicking around the garage. Ill have a rummage.
sh*t, dont worry about that small pit. If thats all it had after 20+ years, then its good for another 20. Cartridge BBs arent all that, just easy to service.
Quote from: maximusotterGet a tub of automotive wheel bearing grease, or better yet, some marine trailer wheel bearing grease, as its even more viscous. Itll cost you 1/10th that of "bicycle grease" which is sort of a joke. :P
My father worked at Vickers Armstrong where the make tanks, he used to regularly bring home stuff like grease. Some of it was really thick...
One of my brothers also worked there, we ended up with a load of tank drawings remaining when he left...
They were all carefully and utterly distroyed, shame that the Ruskies might have paid Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£ for them :(