changed my fronts to koolstops yesturday after i found a squealy issue with my pads, they wore through to the set metal post halfway in, so i chucked on a pair of koolstops, and
oh jesus they are good, i tried locking up my front today from around 18mph and it just decellerated me smoothly!!! i was really surprised, best Ã,£10 i spent lol.
Personally, Ive never been impressed by Koolstops. Unless they were the Magura ones. But Im glad they are working for you.
Quote from: soopahflyPersonally, Ive never been impressed by Koolstops. Unless they were the Magura ones. But Im glad they are working for you.
Thats funny. Not acknowledging the superiority of Koolstop shoes is like being a holocaust denier. Do yall have meetings as well?
Eagle Claws for cantis and LP brakes, and Continentals for calipers for the win. :D
I have found that the cheapie Pyramid knockoffs of Shimanos mid 80s canti pad, if you de-glaze them with emery paper, are rather surprisingly marvelous as well. ;)
Quote from: redbest Ã,£10 i spent lol.
Ã,£10
:faint:
2-3X what I pay.
:shock:
Any idea which ones to refil the cartridges on my tektros?
Quote from: funkychicken9000Any idea which ones to refil the cartridges on my tektros?
Should be the Shimano compatible refills. Alternately, just ditch the carts and get some Continentals which will last you a couple years.
http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=BR2157http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=479The Continentals can often be found at BMX/Skate shops for pretty cheap. Alternately get the even hipper "Phat-pad". :D
The "salmon" colored versions are better for UK slop, though the black is just fine.
Quote from: maximusotterQuote from: redbest Ã,£10 i spent lol.
Ã,£10
:faint:
2-3X what I pay.
:shock:
Could be a business opportunity for ya maxi, buy them in the states and mail them across for a Ã,£5 or something ;)
As if.
Nice to see you get the quite silly Vans shaped ones over there. Been thinking about a set for the road bike. :mrgreen:
(http://www.alansbmx.com/images/vansshoes_cols.jpg) (http://onyerbike.co.uk/showaccessories.asp?mid=61&tid=99)
Ive always found that my machined sidewalled mavics always responded best to fibrax pads.
Only reason to use Fibrax over here is if ya need new blocks for your rod brake roadster. Also their leather lined pads are the business on vintage chrome.
We dont get the full line stateside.
Quote from: maximusotterThats funny. Not acknowledging the superiority of Koolstop shoes is like being a holocaust denier. Do yall have meetings as well?
Its all down to personal preference/opinion.
Ive never used anything but generic pads for my centre pull cantis, v brakes or road brakes and ive also never been found wanting for breaking power, its how you control the break rather than the power of the break/pad setup. This is one of the reasons ive switched back to V brake style brakes - you rarely push the limits of a brake, unless you are clogging it and even then a decent setup v brake should cope with it, i can flip the back of my bike up with one finger on the lever [of my Avid Vs], with no effort at all.
EDIT: Koolstops are very good pads though, MBUK and other mags have been raving on about them for years.
Theyre legendary for several reasons:
Dont pick up glass or shavings--EVER. :shock:
Silent.
Last stupidly long.
Dont wear rim excessively.
The stock inserts on my dual pivot Tektros are pretty good as well, but Im still getting shavings ever couple weeks. Bontrager and Shimano stuff I immediately switch out, as its sh*te.
My experience is strictly road using Kool-Stops with cantis or calipers.
Quote from: maximusotterTheyre legendary for several reasons:
Dont pick up glass or shavings--EVER. :shock:
Silent.
Last stupidly long.
Dont wear rim excessively.
The same could be said about the pads on my campag veloce calipers - a year of use and they are just as good as new, which again emphasises my point about personal preference, i think most generic pads are up to scratch nowadays... though i couldnt comment on *really* cheap halford bikes - it may well be in this case better pads make a difference...
There are still some horrid pads out there: Shimano, Aztec, Bontrager (xtra super crap). Like I mentioned, the dirt cheap Pyramid brand canti studs are fantastic, so its not always about price. Thing is though, that Koolstop pads like the Eagle 2 are usually the cheapest kit at the shop, around $8/pair, perform better and last longer. :lol:
How cheap are these?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Brands.aspx?BrandID=191
Grey Eagle 2s Ã,£3.99 = $8 inc free del
Bought a couple of pairs for Ã,£8, will try them out and if they are as good as maxi claims I will be buying some spares...
Youll love them. Got some grey Continentals on the Raleigh restoration (http://flickr.com/photos/landotter/254286233/), and they brake great! Calipers are crap Raleigh rear and Shimano 600/Ultegra front.
Dont forget to set them up right. Kool-Stops that aintt toed in right like to howl. Removing the mold compound with some sandpaper or equivalent is a *good thing* as well.
Got them this morning, going to install them now and see how they work tomorrow sometime ;)
theyll give you confidence.
the wierd thing about my new pads is they only squeal when i finish braking lol as i let go of the lever. kinky!
Deglaze rims, toe in properly, bye bye squeal. Kool-stops do have a tendency to squeal, but thats a side effect of the compound that also does nice things like not pick up glass and such. Its pretty easy to resolve.
deglaze the what and do the thing?
what?
dont swear at me!!!
You want the leading edge of the pad to hit the rim first, and about 0.5-1mm of gap at the rear when the pad in front first makes contact. The forward motion of the rim will pull the pad flat by flexing the brake arms. If you dont toe in, the brake pad will be hyperextended, and the rear edge will chatter along the rim causing squealing.
(http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/brake1_toein.jpg)
mine dont do that. i cant adjust them.
If its the Eagle 2, you can. Theres a sort of internal gimbal where the post goes into the pad. Loosen, adjust angle, then tighten. Worse comes to worse, one can always slightly bend the caliper arm with a crescent wrench.