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New hub - Will I BUUUUUUUYYYY?

Started by funkychicken9000, December 06, 2006, 00:19:06 AM

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funkychicken9000



Thinking of getting one of these and rebuilding my back wheel on to it.  What are the chances I can re-use the old spokes?  Flanges look *simila* but I dont have measurements.

Also, what are the chances I can get the chainline right?  Is it easy?  Can I space the front chainring with washers if it isnt exact?

redneck

shiny!

wont last long in winter with all the road crap being thrown up :(

maximusotter

AFAIK, On-One hubs are rebranded Formula stuff from Taiwan. Good stuff, got them on my new ride. Very smooth. Catridge bearings, meaning that if they get contaminated with sh*t over the winter and you score the races, its no big deal, as  you replace the whole enchilada.

Reusing spokes is a political thing. I say do it, if you can get them out without kinking too badly. If they start to break, then build the wheel fresh with new stuff. :P

Best way to unscrew nips is with a philips head bit with two of the "prongs" almost ground off with a bench grinder, as there are two little "dents" due to the hole in the thing that the nubs can glom onto. Last build I did was with a drill with a small flat bit, worked fine, though it slipped a bit.

Chainline is adjusted by moving the hub body on the axle. Its super easy. Dont worry.

funkychicken9000

Quote from: maximusotterChainline is adjusted by moving the hub body on the axle. Its super easy. Dont worry.

Moving the hub body on the axle... does that still work if its a flipflop?  And does Ã,£30 sounds reasonable for that hub?

maximusotter

Quote from: funkychicken9000
Quote from: maximusotterChainline is adjusted by moving the hub body on the axle. Its super easy. Dont worry.

Moving the hub body on the axle... does that still work if its a flipflop?  And does Ã,£30 sounds reasonable for that hub?

Ah, true. Flip flop. I wouldnt find any compelling reason to run two cogs or f/w cog. Pulling a wheel, flipping, lining up and setting chain tension while en route is a PITA. :lol: Itll probably work out of the box. If its off enough to want to change the cranks Q factor, washers wont be enough. A couple mms off here or there wont be so bad as to be a big deal.

30 for that hub is totally fair, its less than what the popular rebranded IRO rear hub sells for over here.

funkychicken9000

Right.  Ill go out in the morning and measure my chainline, the hubs 42mm.  

Or theres this:



Ã,£2 cheaper.  What ya reckon?

Products are here and here btw.

[edit] and on other news today, feck me they know how to charge for lockrings.  Ã,£6 for 3g of steel?!

maximusotter

Oh, yeah. Track cogs are one of the biggest rips in the industry. Thats why Im glad I got the Viscount set up with Shimano DX cogs. $5 each, and insanely durable. Vs. a Dura Ace track cog, which is the cheapest usually, at around $20. Not a big deal, but for a single cog, its silly.

Difference between those hubs? The silver polish is prettier. Both 120mm. You may want to respace your drops with a 2x4 and some string, and square out the dropouts with a big crescent wrench. Alternately, you can use washers on the hub to space it out, as the axles are always over-long.

Badabing

Quote from: funkychicken9000Right.  Ill go out in the morning and measure my chainline, the hubs 42mm.  

Or theres this:

(Image removed from quote.)

Ã,£2 cheaper.  What ya reckon?

Products are here and here btw.

[edit] and on other news today, feck me they know how to charge for lockrings.  Ã,£6 for 3g of steel?!

i own that hub, solid, reliable and good value for money.

buy it and ride it.

redneck

lockrings are forged, thats why they are expensive :/

funkychicken9000

No it isnt.  My Ã,£2.50 adjustable spanner is forged.  Lockrings are expensive because they are lockrings.

Serious

Quote from: redlockrings are forged, thats why they are expensive :/

Quote from: funkychicken9000No it isnt.  My Ã,£2.50 adjustable spanner is forged.  Lockrings are expensive because they are lockrings.

If you are going to buy something get the real thing, not some forgery :P

Forging doesnt really cost much anyway, go and look in a Ã,£1 shop and you will most likely find loads of forged tools. What makes the cost is the quality of the materials, low production and whatever the price they can suck out of you.

A rock climbing friend was paying Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£ for a little bag of *special* ultrafine chalk dust. Turned out it was identical to the garden lime I had in a sack. The price of the sack was less than his little hundred gram bag. I provided him with five kilos of the stuff free of charge.

http://www.ekmpowershop.com/ekmps/shops/rangeelectrica/index.asp?function=DISPLAYCAT&catid=164

/waits for screams of pain...

OK probably not suitable but many others should cost a lot less too, just seen some Shimano ones for Ã,£1.80.

funkychicken9000

Yahoo strikes again.

Where were the Ã,£1.80 shimano ones?

Serious


maximusotter

Quote from: funkychicken9000Yahoo strikes again.

Where were the Ã,£1.80 shimano ones?

Thats a cassette lockring for that price. Remember that track parts are forged by Loki of unobtanium and cost 10x as much. Standard Shimano one is $7-10.

funkychicken9000

Duraplaice.  Stocking filler perhaps.